Denavolo
In most places in the world, the word legend is typically reserved to describe a sports figure or a political hero. Only in the historic region of Emilia-Romagna -- home of culatello, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Prosciutto, and Tortelli in brodo -- could there be so much love for some-one-thing that a small vigneron producing rustic, food worthy natural wines could be admired and trumpeted as a legend.
Giulio Armani was making wine long before a lot of us were born. He began his journey as a boy at the age of 16 and the year 1980 at the, now stalwart, Azienda La Stoppa outside of Piacenza. From the beginning Gulio understood the need and place for quaffable wines like Lambrusco and their role as a partner to the food of the region, but, at the same time, always questioned... why can't we build wines for longevity and greatness as well? He pushed the boundaries of a region that was very comfortable championing their high culinary prowess (as maybe one of the most important food destinations in the world), while comfortable, just the same, in accepting that their "affordable" wines were just fine at the back of the Italian pack.
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The wines and direction of Giulio have evolved over time and circumstance. In 1980, he was learning under the tutelage of the current La Stoppa estate owner and local printer Raffaele Pantaleoni. Raffaele purchased the 35-acre property from a well to do lawyer named Giancarlo Ageno in 1973. Mr. Ageno, like many people in the midcentury, was infatuated with Bordeaux varietals. The farm at that time was actually planted with Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Raffaele was not a seasoned vintner and hired the help of a very young local farmhand in Giulio to help him 7 years into his journey.
For the first 10 years or so, Giulio and Raffaele worked alone trying to identify the best avenues to make world-class pinot noir and cabernet in the warm and vigorous hills of Colli Piacentini. It was rough. Everything ripened extremely early. Giulio knew early on that this wasn't the best path for La Stoppa. In 1991, Raffaele handed the farm over to his daughter and young artist Elena Pantelioni. Elena and Giulio slowly began charting a different course. In 1996 they ripped out a vast majority of the vines and planted typical Emilian varietals - Barbera, Bonarda, and Malvasia di Candia. They committed to making the wines they remembered from their childhood; all from local varieties. They committed to organics and solely to patience as it related to the release of wines.
In 2005, a short 10 years later :), Giulio found an old, dilapidated farm perched on the highest hill in the area and decided to build himself a new home there. With this purchase, he acquired a couple of hectares of vines planted in all local white varieties. In 2008 he made his first vintage from his new home -- modeled after his favorite wine AGENO from La Stoppa -- and dubbed the project after the local name for the area/hill he now lived on - Denavolo.
Denavolo has slowly and meticulously grown since then. A few years ago Giulio brought his son Giacomo onto the farm to help him with the vines and property. Giacomo now leads a lot of the efforts at the farm as well as some of the cellar work for Denavolo which is now conducted 100% at La Stoppa.
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As a man, Giulio has the undeniable presence of your father and yet the fervor and energy of one of your wittiest best friends. He is very serious, but his mind and spirit are not. He is undoubtedly one of the best-dressed vignerons you will meet. He is a character, a force, and a conundrum. More than anything, he is a teacher and mentor.
Through the years and longtime recognition, Giulio has drawn in young, inspiring winemakers from all around Europe. You will be hard-pressed to go to any natural wine fair across the globe and not find a handful of Italian winemakers that have either worked under Giulio or have been greatly influenced by him and his work. For some, he is referred to as the Godfather of Emilia.
Personally, Giulio has been extremely influential in my life of wine. He was the first producer I signed onto the portfolio in 2015. I have spent many, many nights with him at La Stoppa, at the farm on Denavolo, and at the nearby home of Andrea Cervini. He has been in the absolute center of all of our pursuits in Italy since day one. There are only a few men I've ever met whom I respect and admire in the same category as my friend Giulio Armani.
-Brett